The alcohol rules
The thing that catches out more visitors than anything else.
Beer and cider up to 4.7% are sold in supermarkets, with sales stopping at 8pm on weekdays, 6pm on Saturdays, and not at all on Sundays or public holidays.
Everything stronger — wine, spirits, strong beer — is sold only by Vinmonopolet, the state monopoly, which closes around 6pm on weekdays, 3 or 4pm on Saturdays, and all day Sunday.
Buy at the airport arrivals duty-free shop. It is before customs, it is what Norwegians do, and it is dramatically cheaper. Know your allowance.
Legal drinking age is 18 for beer and wine, 20 for spirits, and ID is checked.
Drinking in public is technically prohibited and quietly widespread in summer parks. Do not be conspicuous about it.
Money
Norwegian krone (NOK). Norway is not in the EU and does not use the euro.
Effectively cashless. Card or phone everywhere; some businesses accept no cash at all. Vipps is the domestic app and requires a Norwegian bank account — a card is fine.
Decline dynamic currency conversion. Pay in kroner.
Tipping is not expected. Service is included. Round up in a restaurant for good service if you like; nothing in bars or taxis.
VAT is 25 per cent, included in every price. Non-residents can reclaim above a threshold.
Safety
Oslo is one of the safest cities in Europe. Violent crime against visitors is rare.
Around Oslo S and Brugata there is a visible drug scene. Norway’s approach is public-health-led and the open dealing near the station is long-established. It is unpleasant rather than threatening.
Pickpocketing happens on crowded trams and at the station.
Emergency: 112 police, 113 ambulance, 110 fire. These are separate numbers, which is unusual.
The right to roam
Allemannsretten lets you walk, ski, swim, camp and pick berries on uncultivated land, whoever owns it. You may camp two nights at least 150 metres from any house.
In exchange: leave no trace, and no open fires in or near woodland from 15 April to 15 September.
The detail is in friluftsliv.
Hours
Shops roughly 10 to 6 or 8 on weekdays, shorter on Saturday. Most shops are closed on Sunday — small convenience stores under a size threshold may open, and they are more expensive.
Restaurants stop serving early by southern European standards, often around nine or ten.
Museums are usually closed one day a week, and many have much shorter winter hours.
Practical
Tap water is excellent. Nobody buys bottled and asking for tap in a restaurant is normal.
Shoes come off indoors. In every Norwegian home, always. Do not wait to be asked.
Plugs are European two-pin, 230V.
Under-18s go free at most museums.
Public toilets are scarce and often charge. Museums, libraries and shopping centres are the answer.
Winter footwear. Pavements ice over. Brodder — strap-on studs — cost very little in any supermarket and prevent the most common injury visitors have here.
Two things about the manner
Nobody will make small talk with you, and it is not rudeness. Norwegians have a strong norm against intruding on strangers.
Queue properly, take a number. Many shops, pharmacies and Vinmonopolet outlets use a ticket dispenser. Take one on the way in.